Thursday 9 June 2011

Burgundy 2011 - The view from the vines at Domaine Grivot

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
The photos below were taken by Hubert Grivot on the 7th June in balmy 25C weather and blue skies. If you haven't yet heard, things are galloping along at pace down on the Cote d'Or, with many growers reporting a whole months advance in the usual cycle of their vines. Yet, despite the precocious nature of the vintage thus far, vine and berry development is reported to be healthy and harmonious.

The last couple of days have been cooler, no bad thing, with temperatures hovering around 17C. Growers are hoping this might slow things down a little...


Thanks to Mathilde Grivot for sending these photos through and keeping us up to date with life as a winemaker in Vosne Romanee.

Bordeaux 2010 - Château Balestard La Tonnelle

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
The St Emilion UGC is not the place one expects to find anything but nasty surprises. Yes, the Nicolas Thienpont wines always shine, but many of the others are, well, dross! Nevertheless, we boldly step into the fray each year, just in case... Our persistence was rewarded (thankfully). The very first wine, one Château Balestard La Tonnelle, Grand Cru Classé, bowled us over. What a wine. Great concentration, beautiful, precise flavours, well managed tannins and lots of freshness and lift. What more could one want? At £295 per case, this along with Tour du Pin (£300) and Moulin St Georges (not yet released) make up our hot trio from St Emilion.

Bordeaux 2010 - Talbot, Langoa, Reserve de Comtesse and more...

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
First up, we have Anthony Barton's 3rd Growth St Julien Estate, Langoa Barton. We have been extolling the virtues of Langoa for many years. There has been a gradual transition from gentle, slightly old fashioned wines to a much more muscular, impressive style. Tasting the 2009 and the 2010, you would have to say that Langoa has arrived at its destination. This brace exemplify everything good about modern St Julien. Both are enormously impressive wines, but the 2010 possibly has the greater aging potential. Kudos to Mon. B.
Travelling a little further inland and a little further down the 1855 classification, Chateau Talbot has joined the party. It is perhaps fair to say we liked rather than loved Talbot this year, but it nevertheless is a concentrated age worthy effort built in a classical style. And compared to some it has only a modest increase on last year's price.
Reserve de la Comtesse has, in our opinion, hit the nail on the head this year. Beautifully styled and refined with a textbook Pauillac nose and wonderfully fine tannins this is a very good and handsome second wine, with another modest rise on 2009 (though still a rise we hear you say).
Also out today, Jonathan Maltus' St. Emilion garagiste property Le Dome. Quite possibly unique in Bordeaux in that it is now made up of 80% Cabernet Franc, it received a laudable 94-96 from Parker, and was also tasted very well by the J&B team.
From the Moueix stable we have Certan de May, whose vineyards sit next to Lafleur, VCC and Petrus. At £840 it is a flamboyant effort that will no doubt be considerably cheaper than its neighbours.
*Stop Press* One final release, just out Cantenac Brown at £430 cs ib. Controversial in that its power and concentration that belie its appellation, it is nonetheless a very impressive wine.

Bordeaux 2010 - Haut Bergey

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Haut Bergey 2010 has achieved unanimous praise; so much so that cynics might question the proximity of scores from all the major critics... 92-94 from Robert Parker and Neal Martin, 92-93 from James Suckling and 92-95 from The Wine Spectator. This property situated near to the excellent Haut Bailly, produces charming, good value Pessac, and offers lots of QRP.

Bordeaux 2010 - Giscours, Echo de Lynch Bages, Pagodes

Posted by Julian Campbell, Buyer
Giscours have made a very good 2010 indeed with plenty of Margaux typicity but also a wonderful depth of fruit. It is has been awarded its highest ever marks from Big Bob (92-95) and should cellar beautifully for two decades or more.
Echo de Lynch Bages represents something of a relative steal this vintage. Crafted very much in the mould of Lynch Bages, without such enormous power but with added accessibility and juiciness and a beautiful vivacity. Lovers of the Cazes style will not be disappointed.
Pagodes, what can we say about Pagodes? As modern and sleek as its brand new winery, it is a tour de force of winemaking craft and once again sits stylistically and recognisably beside its bigger sibling.
'Possibly the finest Pagodes the estate has produced, as Jean-Guillaume Prats said, this 2010 is better than many vintages of Cos d'Estournel produced in the sixties and seventies. Forty-five percent of the production made it into this blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot that achieved 14.1% alcohol naturally. Plump and fat with an abundant concentration of black fruits as well as outstanding intensity, purity and texture, this beauty should drink well for 10-15 years. 90-93/100'. - Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #194